The Sheriff and Uncle Dick – Veterans Des Hunt and Dick Schafer		Traditional communal brekky after the Dawn Service
Long Tan Day 2004	The Pandanus Sherriff refuels at Kalpowar Airstrip. Each year this tanker brings in dieseland unleaded to help the vets stay in Pandanus longer.			Long Tan Day 2004

It’s morning at Pandanus and the sun is rising over the horizon. Tentacles of light and warmth begin to rise and break through the foliage of the trees, numerous anthills and other prolific vegetation that the Australian ‘scrub’ consists of. The light of dawn chases away the dark shadows of the night and wakes the fauna and flora of the Outback. The birds begin their unanimous but individual morning expressions. Fingers of warm sun reach out and warm the backs of lizards as their darting tongues stretch out for the unwary beetle. Crocodiles, still alert after their nights scavenging, rest on the river banks, and like the lizards, allow the sun to warm their bodies to enable their ambient temperature to rise to the optimum level while the wild pigs and brumbies who share this vast acreage with the odd cow or two descended from the cattle station days, casually continue their foraging. The Dingoes keep on the move. This is Pandanus Park. One hundred thousand acres of Australian Outback. It is an abandoned Soldier Settlement block and is a place where Veterans can ‘chill out’ for a season. Where they can draw from the land and vast open spaces a peace, strength and refreshment enabling them to continue on with life. It is a place of camaraderie and mateship, where one vet understands another, where one is given space and time to re-gather himself and his thoughts on life. There are no buildings, modern facilities, running water or electricity. It is the Outback – Australia in its rawest form. Pandanus. If you like television or the needed Corner Store, don’t go. If you enjoy silver service cuisine, don’t go. If you like your chiropractic bed, an ironed shirt, press button stoves and modern bathroom facilities, don’t go. BUT if you remember the days of Vietnam and living in the bush, the camaraderie, the ‘brotherhood’ that such times fostered, if you like to catch your daily quota of fish, crab or oysters and have them cooked over an open camp fire, if you like waking in the morning to the sounds of native birds and watching one of God’s spectacular sunsets or sunrises, please go. If you need space for a season, this is the place for you. Oh, one more thing, you have to be prepared to dig your own dunnies. If you don’t mind traveling for four hours off the beaten track into the real outback during the dry season, crossing slow moving creeks, climbing rugged rocky roads and bush tracks and driving through scrub, spinifex and sand and carting food and other necessities of life needed for the duration of your stay - it is well worth all your efforts to get there. Pandanus is near Cooktown or Laura in Far North Queensland. It’s even nearer to Lakefield National Park, on Cape York. At Lakefield’s Kalpower crossing, you head on over the crossing, through the gate and on for a while, following the three red stripes and the faded streamers of survey tape. About half an hour or so later, you’ll see the Pandanus War Memorial on your right and Base Camp just beyond. At Base Camp, you will see a canvas satchel. Please stop here and open the satchel, because inside is a Visitors Book and it would be good if you could add your signature to those who have already gone ‘outside the wire’ and embarked on their pilgrimage These red painted stripes represent the Australian service Medal and are also the Logo used on official and communication documents in regards to Pandanus Park. You have some work to do when arriving at Pandanus. Tents have to be pitched, caravans have to be parked, fishing boats off loaded, tables and chairs need to be set out on the red soiled ground and new or old acquaintances greeted with the customary handshake and “G’day Mate.” Only then can one sit back and receive what Pandanus offers. The story goes that Les Hiddins, who is known as the Bush Tucker Man, was yacking to a mate, a Ranger with Parks and Wildlife, (a Government body) and said how it would be good if there were a place where Veterans could ‘chill out’. A former Mayor of Cook Town, Graham Elms, knew just the spot for such a thing. It was 100,000 acres of land, formerly known as Kalpower Station (alias the Green Ant Block), not viable for cattle and purchased in 1980 by the Government for a possible National Park. So Les, Dick Shafer and a couple of their mates, tracked into what is now known as Pandanus Park and had a look around. They liked what they saw. Initially they went for two weeks but stayed for ten. A couple of weeks later, back in Pandanus, Dick and another mate, Jock, were coming in from a night of fishing, ‘buggered’ with their efforts. And just like Peter and the other disciples coming in to land after a nights fishing, there on the shore waiting to greet them was a ‘power of authority.’ Not Jesus in this case, but a Police Officer and believe me, he has a lot of authority in the Outback. “What’s the trouble?” Dick and Jock enquired. “Looking for Veterans” was the laconic reply. He could be laconic as at his heels panted two big dogs and strapped to his hip was a very visible side-arm. “Well you’ve found some,” answered the two Veterans. “Come up to the camp for a brew.” “There is a Ministerial investigation on you blokes” went on the Voice of Authority, “The Minister for the Environment heard that there are Veterans living up here illegally, dressed in camouflage gear and wearing grease paint. It is also reported that they are carrying explosive devices and have sentries placed around the perimeter of this property” Jock and Dick, amazed at what they heard, uttered one word in reply, “Bullshit!” The Police Officer, who introduced himself as Bobby Haden from the township of Laura, strolled across to his four-wheel drive and, holding the two-way radio, dialed the Inspector in Cairns. He asked the Inspector to speak up but neglected to inform him that Jock and Dick would be listening in to the dialogue. “You all right Bob?” asked the Inspector. “Yeah Sir. The story is all bullshit Sir. There are just two old fellas here, both grandfathers, and on so many pills for health problems they can’t even take a drink.” “Well……stand down on this one Bob. What are you going to do now?” “Goin’ fishin’ with ‘em Sir.” Over the next few hours, Bob informed Jock and Dick that the Queensland SWAT Team had been put on standby as well as the Police Academy in Cairns. They had just been waiting to hear from Bob before taking their next course of action. From these rocky beginnings in 1999 Pandanus has grown. It is supported by the local population and is recommended by Doctors as far away as Melbourne, which is over 3,000ks and Perth – over 6,000ks away. These people all seek to assist in helping veterans to come out of the ‘woodwork’ and to find themselves amongst other veterans who have suffered the same complaints as they. In 2000, it was decided to have a memorial service on Long Tan Day – which is Australia’s National Memorial Day for Vietnam Veterans. There were 33 men in attendance who were mainly locals from the State of Queensland. The second year there were 150 people, the next 350-400 people and by then, the majority was traveling from every State in Australia. In 2003 a Memorial was erected and paid for by donations. Buried in this Memorial is soil from the Kokoda Trail in New Guinea, pebbles from Anzac Cove in Gallipoli, broken tiles from Vietnam and rocks from Malaya. There is other memorabilia buried here too from places where members of our Defence Forces have served and died. Like the Washington War Memorial in the United States of America, people come and leave symbolic things in memory of a mate who has died either in the Vietnam War or has died since because of War related illness. Each bring their offering in humility in memory of the great sacrifice paid, while it seems at times, their country who called for that sacrifice, has forgotten the cost of it. In different places on Pandanus are three groups of black rocks. The local Spirit Man (Aborigine) states that these rocks have healing powers. He claims that when Veterans visit Pandanus they are “good old fellas, let them have no more fighting and live in peace.” This has proved to be true for many Veterans who have visited Pandanus. Each year, someone wears their medals for the first time. Two vets who had tried to ‘neck’ themselves are now back in society. Doctors and Psychologists are recommending Veterans pay Pandanus a visit.

How can I end this story? Well I can’t really as there is no end to Pandanus. It is growing, establishing roots, spreading out its wings to shelter those who need its protection and what it offers. It isn’t a Dreamtime place, it is a real place; solid and substantial and it offers to those who care to visit it, an experience that is not forgotten. It has the ability to call you to it, and call again when you have been. It finds a place in your heart and mind. It’s called Pandanus.

Website http://veteransanctuary.tripod.com Maps and related information http://veteransanctuary.tripod.com/pandus.htm

IF you are a Veteran Tourist to Australia and would like to make travel enquiries about Pandanus, please contact tolson@bigpond.net.au and ask for Nick Steogen. Nick is a Veteran and he will help you.

Post Script:

Frightened of the crocodiles? I have been told by one Veteran that crocodiles are territorial and are creatures of habit. If you walk down to the waters edge for three days at the same time, no problem, but probably on the fourth day the crocodile will be waiting for you! Be warned. Go to the water or your destination a different way each time, it confuses them. If you are fishing during the night, shine your torch on the surface of the water, their eyes glow a dull red so you can see where they are. If you get the feeling that Big Brother is watching, he probably is. Frightened of Snakes - well they don’t bother you unless you bother them. You are on their turf, so respect that. Wary of brumbies? - Don’t be. Just yell out “Scat” wave your arms and jump up and down and they will run away. Wary of wild pigs? As above - I think. If jumping up and down and yelling doesn’t work in this case, please let me know! Terrified of spiders – like me? Yell for a Veteran!

Bibliography 

Scrub                                    the wild bush areas of the Australian Outback

Soldier Settlement Block        an acreage deeded by the Fed. Government to former soldiers  returning from 1^st. World War.

Dry season                            when rain does not fall for a certain time of the year

Yacking                                talking

Chill Out                               have space to relax in

Brumbie                               Australian wild horse

Outback                               Australian bush

Buggered                             Australian terminology for extremely tired

Brew                                   a cup of tea

Bullshit                                not true

Fellas                                  Fellows

Dunnies                               toilets/lavatory

Neck themselves                 attempt to commit suicide

Long Tan  Day                    National Memorial Day for Vietnam Veterans, is remembered on August 18^th every year.  Long Tan was a place not far from Nui Dat, Australia’s base in South Vietnam.  It was here that members of 6RAR, D Company, fought over a Battalion strength of North Vietnamese soldiers on a place no bigger than 3 football fields in the middle of a rubber tree plantation. It was late afternoon and during this battle, the Aussies were running low on ammunition.  The RAAF sent out a helicopter with ammunition, but owing to monsoon rains, resupply proved to be very difficult.  However, the pilot managed to land his life saving cargo on target. Australia suffered 23 killed, 17 wounded, another died later of wounds. Over 245 of the enemy was killed, but the final tally for the enemy could not be finalized as bodies were still being found three days later and many blood stains were visible on the surrounding vegetation.  If you go to Vietnam today, Long Tan is no longer on any Vietnamese map.  I have been told that to save face for losing such a battle, the Vietnamese powers that be, eradicated Long Tan from the maps and included that area in the surrounding provinces.  ‘Twas a day when the North Vietnamese Army learned a great respect for the Aussie soldier.

Author’s note:

Our Nation has sent young men and women to fight in other wars beside Vietnam. Those who returned suffered what was formerly known as ‘Shell Shock’ but now is termed Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. These men and women have returned, and are presently returning, with memories that an ordinary person would not see with their natural eyes in a life-time. Memories which burn deep into the subconscious causing nightmares, sweats, tremblings, sleeplessness and unexplained viruses. They fought to protect our land and way of life, representing civilians and the Government of Australia. Isn’t it good that some of this vast land in which we live, can offer something back of itself to those veterans who are seeking solace? Isn’t it good that the land itself is offering a gift of peace when Government Departments, in some cases, are causing more stress in Veterans by withholding pensions and medical assistance?

Carla Evans Chaplain VVNW & The Veterans Coalition, Australia